Eye Makeup for Different Eye Shapes

Eyes are often considered the focal point of any makeup look, but there's no one-size-fits-all approach to eye makeup. As a professional visagiste, I've found that understanding and working with your unique eye shape is the key to creating truly flattering makeup looks. In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore techniques specifically tailored to enhance different eye shapes, helping you make the most of your natural features.

Identifying Your Eye Shape

Before diving into specific techniques, it's important to determine your eye shape. Look at your eyes in a mirror with a neutral expression and observe the following characteristics:

Crease visibility: Is your crease visible when your eyes are open? Is it partially hidden?
Eye width and length: Are your eyes more round or elongated?
Lid space: How much visible eyelid do you have when your eyes are open?
Eye position: Are your eyes set close together or wide apart?
Eye angle: Do the outer corners of your eyes turn upward, downward, or remain neutral?

While some people have a distinct eye shape, many have combination features. The techniques we'll discuss can be mixed and adapted to suit your unique eyes.

Almond Eyes

Almond eyes are often considered the "standard" eye shape in makeup tutorials. They're characterized by a visible crease, with the iris partially covered by the upper and lower lids, creating an almond-like shape.

Makeup Techniques for Almond Eyes

Since almond eyes are naturally balanced, you have the flexibility to experiment with various makeup styles. To enhance this shape:

Apply a medium-toned shadow across the lid and blend a slightly deeper shade into the crease to emphasize its natural definition.
Extend eyeshadow slightly beyond the outer corner for a subtle lift.
Line both the upper and lower lash lines, connecting them at the outer corner for definition.
For a classic look, create a winged liner that follows the natural upward tilt of your eye.

Products and Tools for Almond Eyes

Tapered blending brush for precise crease work
Neutral eyeshadow palettes with a range of light to dark shades
Fine-tipped eyeliner for creating precise wings

Round Eyes

Round eyes are characterized by their circular shape, with little to no visible lid space covered by the upper or lower lids when looking straight ahead. The whites of the eyes are typically visible all around the iris.

Makeup Techniques for Round Eyes

The goal with round eyes is often to create the illusion of elongation:

Apply darker shadow on the outer third of the lid and blend upward and outward toward the temple.
Keep the center of the lid lighter to push it back visually.
Focus liner on the outer half of the eye, making it thicker toward the outer corner.
Create a wing that extends straight out rather than upward to elongate the eye horizontally.
Apply mascara more heavily on the outer lashes to draw the eye outward.

Products and Tools for Round Eyes

Matte eyeshadows for creating depth and dimension
Angled eyeliner brush for precise outer corner definition
Lash curler to open up the eyes without emphasizing roundness

Hooded Eyes

Hooded eyes have a fold of skin that droops over the crease, reducing visible lid space when the eyes are open. This eye shape can be genetic or develop with age as skin loses elasticity.

Makeup Techniques for Hooded Eyes

The key with hooded eyes is to create dimension and lift while working with the limited visible lid space:

Apply eyeshadow with your eyes open to ensure placement is visible.
Create a "fake crease" by applying darker shadow slightly above your natural crease so it's visible when eyes are open.
Use matte shadows for crease work as shimmer can emphasize hood.
Keep lid colors light to bring them forward.
For eyeliner, use a thin line close to the lashes or try "tight-lining" (lining the upper waterline) to define eyes without taking up precious lid space.
Create eyeliner wings by looking straight ahead and drawing the wing from the outer corner, then connecting back to the lash line.

Products and Tools for Hooded Eyes

Eyeshadow primer to prevent creasing and transfer
Waterproof and smudge-proof eyeliners
Small, precise brushes for detailed work
Matte shadows for creating dimension

Monolid Eyes

Monolid eyes have little to no visible crease, creating a flat surface from the lash line to the brow bone. This eye shape is common in East Asian facial features.

Makeup Techniques for Monolid Eyes

Monolids offer a beautiful blank canvas for creative makeup approaches:

Create dimension with a gradient effect, using darker colors near the lash line that fade upward.
Apply deeper shadow at the outer corner and blend inward to add depth.
Experiment with graphic liner styles that are visible when eyes are open.
Try the "batwing" liner technique, where the liner extends both upward and downward at the outer corner to create the illusion of an uplifted outer corner.
Use shimmery or metallic shadows on the center of the lid to bring it forward.
Consider "halo eye" techniques, with lighter color in the center of the lid and darker colors on the inner and outer corners.

Products and Tools for Monolid Eyes

Long-wearing and waterproof products to prevent transfer
Gel and liquid liners for precise application
Individual false lashes or lash extensions to add dimension

Downturned Eyes

Downturned eyes have an outer corner that tilts slightly downward. This can create a sweet, gentle appearance that can be enhanced or balanced with makeup.

Makeup Techniques for Downturned Eyes

The focus for downturned eyes is creating lift at the outer corner:

Concentrate darker shadow slightly above the outer corner and blend upward toward the end of the eyebrow.
Keep the inner corner and center of the lid lighter to draw attention upward.
Create a winged liner that angles upward more dramatically than the natural eye line.
Avoid heavy shadow or liner on the lower lash line, especially at the outer corner, as this can emphasize the downward tilt.
Apply mascara focusing on the center and outer lashes, directing them upward.

Products and Tools for Downturned Eyes

Angled brush for precise placement of lifting shadow
Eyelash curler to redirect lashes upward
Winged liner stamps or stencils for perfectly lifted wings

Upturned Eyes

Upturned eyes have a natural lift at the outer corner, creating a slight cat-eye effect. This eye shape naturally draws attention upward.

Makeup Techniques for Upturned Eyes

Enhance the natural lift of upturned eyes:

Emphasize the natural upward tilt by placing deeper shadow at the outer corner.
Create a wing that follows the natural upward angle of your eye.
Balance the upward tilt by applying a bit of definition to the lower lash line.
Try a "puppy liner" technique (where the wing angles slightly downward) for a softer, more balanced look if desired.

Products and Tools for Upturned Eyes

Cream and powder shadows for layering and dimension
Pencil liner for the lower lash line
Mascara that defines both upper and lower lashes

Deep-Set Eyes

Deep-set eyes are recessed under the brow bone, creating a prominent brow ridge and the appearance of a deeper crease.

Makeup Techniques for Deep-Set Eyes

The goal is to bring the eyes forward and minimize shadows:

Use light, shimmery shadows on the lid to bring it forward.
Avoid dark colors in the crease as they can make eyes appear more recessed.
Apply a highlighter shade to the center of the lid and inner corner to catch light.
Keep the brow bone highlight subtle to avoid emphasizing the deep-set nature.
Line the upper waterline (tight-line) to define eyes without creating more depth.

Products and Tools for Deep-Set Eyes

Light-reflecting shimmer or metallic shadows
Flesh-toned eyeliner for the lower waterline to brighten
Cream shadows that create a light-reflecting surface

Protruding Eyes

Protruding or prominent eyes extend outward from the eye socket, creating a lot of visible lid space and sometimes showing more of the whites of the eyes.

Makeup Techniques for Protruding Eyes

The approach is to create depth and dimension:

Use matte shadows across the lid to minimize prominence.
Apply deeper shades on the lid and blend well into the crease.
Create a gradient effect with the darkest color at the lash line, gradually lightening toward the crease.
Define both upper and lower lash lines to frame the eye.
Avoid highlighting the inner corner or center of the lid too heavily.

Products and Tools for Protruding Eyes

Matte eyeshadow palettes in neutral tones
Soft, fluffy blending brushes for seamless transitions
Kohl liners for creating soft definition

Close-Set Eyes

Close-set eyes have less space between them than the width of one eye. The inner corners appear closer to the bridge of the nose.

Makeup Techniques for Close-Set Eyes

The goal is to create the illusion of more space between the eyes:

Apply lighter shades to the inner half of the eye and deeper shades to the outer half.
Highlight the inner corner generously to create the illusion of more space.
Start eyeliner from the middle of the lash line rather than the inner corner.
Focus mascara on the outer lashes to draw attention outward.
When applying under-eye concealer, extend it toward the temple rather than toward the nose.

Products and Tools for Close-Set Eyes

Brightening inner corner highlight
Precise brushes for controlled application
Mascara with a small wand for targeted application

Wide-Set Eyes

Wide-set eyes have more space between them than the width of one eye. The distance from the inner corner to the bridge of the nose is greater.

Makeup Techniques for Wide-Set Eyes

The approach is to visually bring the eyes closer:

Apply deeper shades to the inner corners and lighter shades to the outer corners.
Extend eyeshadow toward the bridge of the nose.
Start eyeliner from the innermost point of the lash line and make it thicker at the inner corner.
Focus mascara on the inner lashes to create emphasis closer to the nose.
Consider a subtle smoky effect that concentrates color at the inner corner.

Products and Tools for Wide-Set Eyes

Dark pencil or gel liner for the inner corner
Small, precise brushes for inner corner work
Gradient eyeshadow palettes for transition from dark to light

Universal Eye Makeup Tips

Regardless of your eye shape, these professional visagiste tips will help elevate your eye makeup:

Use eyeshadow primer: This creates a smooth base, prevents creasing, and enhances color payoff.
Invest in quality brushes: Good tools make application significantly easier and more precise.
Build intensity gradually: It's easier to add more product than to remove excess.
Blend thoroughly: Harsh lines rarely look flattering in eye makeup.
Consider your eye color: Complementary colors can make your eye color appear more vibrant (purple for green eyes, copper for blue eyes, blue/navy for brown eyes).
Balance with brows: Well-groomed eyebrows frame your eyes and enhance any eye makeup look.

Conclusion

Understanding your unique eye shape is the foundation of creating flattering eye makeup looks. While these guidelines offer direction, they're just starting points—feel free to adapt them to your preferences and experiment beyond them. The most important aspect of makeup is that it makes you feel confident and expresses your personal style.

Remember that practice is essential in mastering eye makeup techniques. Take time to experiment with different approaches, observe how they enhance your features, and develop the skills that work best for your unique eyes. With time and experimentation, you'll discover the techniques that make your eyes truly shine.